Sewing-machine



{No Model.) 5 Sheets--Sheet 1. C.- DANGEL.

SEWING MACHINE.

No. 459,036. Patented Sept. 8, 1891.

(No Model.) 5 Sheets- Sheet 2. C. DANCEL.

SEWING MACHINE.

No. 459,036. Patented Sept. 8, "1891.

5 Sheets-Sheet 3.

(No Model.)

C. DANCEL.

SEWING MACHINE.

No. 459,036. Patented Sept. 8, 1891.

(No Model.) 5 Sheets--Sheet` 4.

C DANCEL SEWING MACHINE.

N@ 459,036. Patented sept.8,1891.

E12/m @wwf/jme?,-

{No Model.) C 5 Sheets-Sheet 5.

SEWING MACHINE.

Na. 459,036. Patented Sept. 8,1891,

UNITED STATES PATENT OEETCE.

CHRISTIAN DANCER, OF BROOKLYN, NE\V YORK.

SEWING-MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 459,036, datedSeptember 8, 1891.

Application led August 4, 1890. Serial No. 360,848. (No model.)

To @ZZ whom. it may concern:

Be it known that l, CHRISTIAN DANCEL.,of Brooklyn, county of Kings,State of New York, have invented an Improvement in Tax- ThreadSewing-Machines, of which the following description, in connection withthe accompanying drawings, is a specification, like letters and figureson the drawings representing like parts.

This invention has for its object the production of a novel machine forsewing with wax-thread, the stitch being made from two threads, onemanipulated by a hooked needle and the other by a shuttle, the machineherein represented being adapted for sewing outsoles to welts in themanufacture of boots and shoes.

The machine herein to be described contains a straight hooked needle anda curved awl, both adapted to work upwardly from below the work-support,upon which the sole is supposed to rest, the needle-bar-actuatingmechanism and the awl-actuatin g mechanism having combined with themdevices whereby they are adapted to accommodate themselves to varyingthicknesses of material, the point of the awl and of the hooked needlealways rising for substantially the same distance through the top of thewelt, whatever maybe the thickness ofthe outer sole and welt. Thefulcrum-posts for the levers employed for actuating the needle-bar andawl-carrying lever are varied in their position by or through thepresser-foot, which bears upon the stock, which in practice will be thewelt, the sole at such time resting upon a fixed work-support. The stockis fed by means of feeding devices, which clamp and move it positively.That member of the feedingclamp against which the outer sole bears has,as shown, a knife located just in advance of the needle to cut a grooveor channel in the sole to conceal the stitch, for in a machine whereinthe shuttle is double-pointed and enters successive loops ofneedle-thread firstfrom one and then from the other side thereof it willbe remembered that every other loop of needle-thread is twisted out ofline, and were it not for the groove in the sole the stitch wouldpresent to t-he eye a zigzag appearance, which would be apt to renderthe shoe unsalable. This groove, if made in the sole before putting itin the machine, must be made in a machine wherein the shoe is held on alast, the upper serving as the gage to define the distance of the seamuniting the welt and outsole from the upper. To however avoid this extraoperation, the channel-groove maybe out in thesewing-machineat apointimmediately before the stitch-makin g point and just previous to makingthe stitch. The needle-thread is ledfrom a suitable spoolor bobbin to athread eye, whichis connected with the rising and falling presser-foot,and the said thread is taken from the thread-eye by a forkedthread-carrier, which deposits a quantity of the said thread upon aloop-sustainer, which is maintained in position while the thread-carrierdeposits the needle-thread held by it into the hook of the needle. Thishaving been done, the said thread-sustainer is retracted or moved out ofthe way, it coming into position again when the thread-carrier is fullylifted and the needle is just about penetrating the material, thethread-sustainer remainin g stationary while the needle-thread is laidin loop form above it, as described. This thread-sustainer is alsoadapted to rise and fall together with the presser-foot, according tothe variations in thickness of the stock, so that it may always occupythe proper posi'- tion to correctly co-operate with the threadcarrierwhether the stock is thick or thin. The shuttle used is double-ended andadapted to make a stitchin each direction of its movement, and theshuttle-race is completely cut through crosswise and has combined withit an oscillating loop-spreader, which takes the loop of needle-threadwhile held in the hook of the needle and carries it laterally, thusspreading the loop to be entered by the shuttle. (lo-operating with theloop-spreader is a cast-off for throwing the loop ont of the eye of theneedle on the back-stroke of the spreader. The needle-bar as it risesactuates a lever to pull off from the thread-supply a quantity ofthread, which varies in amount according to the thickness of the stock,the needlethread at such time being clamped between the pull-off leverfor the needle-thread and the thread-eye referred to. The needle-threadis passed over a take-up, which acts not only IOO to give up thread tothe thread-carrier during its descent, but also to give up thread to theneedle while descending and to the spreader, and thereafter to take upthe loop of needle-thread. While the needle is completing its descentthe needle-thread is unclamped between the take-up and themeasuring-roll and clamped between the measuring-roll and thethread-supply, so that the ro thread previously drawn off positivelyfrom the thread-supply has an opportunity to come into the stitch thenbeing made;

Figure 1 is a top or plan view of a machine embodying myinvention; Fig.1, three views of the shuttle enlarged 3 Fig. 2, a lefthand side viewthereof; Fig. 8, a front elevation thereof; Fig. 4, a right-hand endview. Figs. 5 and 6 represent the shape ot' the awl and needle-actuatingcam-grooves. Fig. 7 is zo a partial section below the dotted line Fig.4; Figs. S and 9, details of the cam-grooves in the peripheries of thefeed and spreader cams B C; Fig. 10, a diagramshowingthe measuringroll,the actin g portion of the thread-clamp,the 2 5 tension device, theneedle, the thread-eye, the Vthread-carrier, and part of the take-up;Fig. 11, a detail showing part of an outsole and welt with the hookedneedle therein and about to be supplied with a measured loop of thread3o from the thread-carrier, the presser-foot resting on the welt, thethread-sustainer yet supporting the loop of needle-thread about to bedrawn through the stock by the hooked needle. Fig. 12 shows three viewsof that inem- 3 5 ber of the feed-clamp which is provided with thecutter; Fig. 13, a top View and side elevation of the loop-spreader andcast-off en-V larged; Fig. 14, three views of the shuttlerace detached,and Fig. 15 two views of the 4o measuring-block.

Referring to the drawings, A represents the framework of the machine,which may be of any suitable shape to support the working parts. Thisframe-work has suitable bearings for a main or cam shaft A upon whichare secured cams B, C, D and E and a pinion F, (shown by dotted lines inFig. 4,) it being located between the cams C and E,its purpose being toengage and rotate the cam-gear E",

5o mounted upon a stud E2, the said cam-gear having a cam-groove in oneside of it, as represented in Fig. 4, which receives a roller or otherstud E3 on a lever E4, pivoted at E5 upon a part of the frame-work, thesaid lever at its upper end having a swiveled joint E,

to which is connected by screw E7 a shuttledriving rod E8, havingsuitable drivers e e', (shown in Fig. 4,) which act against the oppositeends of the shuttle E9, (shown separately 6o in Fig. 1%) the saiddrivers acting in usual manner to reciprocate the shuttle and carry itthrough the loop of needle-thread,to be described; but the speed ofrotation ot the camgear E is one-half that of the main shaft A',

so that the shuttle is passed through one loop in one direction andthrough the next loop in the opposite direction, thus making a stitch ateach stroke of the shuttle in each direction. The rod E8 has anadditional bearing in a lug or ear E10, secured to or forming part ofthe shuttle-race E12, which is attached by a suitable bolt or bolts E13to the top plate of the frame-work A. This shuttle-race is shownseparately in Fig. 14, where it will be seen that the race has a broadtransverse slot 40, through which works the spreader ZJ, to bedescribed, (shown separately in Fig. 13,) the said race having at itsupper side a work-support b', provided with a groove b2, up throughwhich the needle and awl rise, the one to perforate the material and theother to enter the hole made by the awl.

The portion b4 of the shuttle-race acts as a support for the undermember 010 of the feedclamp. It. will be noticed that this shuttleraceis substantially straight at its upper side, but that it is slightlyinclined from a horizontal plane and that the work-support is elevatedabove it, such construction permitting the shuttle to move in a straightline, and also enabling the shoe to be tipped as required, in order thatthe stitch may be made through the welt and outsole close to the inseamor to the upper next to the last.

The shuttle will be provided with any usual tension mechanism, and theshuttle-race and shuttle will be heated in any usual manner to keep theshuttle-thread warm and the wax on the thread soft.

' The spreader b (shown separately in Fig. 13) is composed, essentially,ot' an upright arm hayng a groove 2 for the reception of the loop ofneedle-thread, the said arm being Vconnected to the upper end of anoscillatingn shaft Z914, having at its lower end a pinion b5, which isengaged by a toothed segment b, pivoted at bi, the said segment havingadjustably connected with it by a set-screw bs a link b9, in turnjointed at its opposite end to a lever B', having its fulcrum on a studB2 and provided with a roller or other stud B3, which enters the groove3 (see Fig. 9) in the cam C, the shape of the said cam being such as tooscillate the said shaft for about onehalta rotation. The'shatt b14 hasconnected to it a cast-off U0, (shown in Fig. 13,) it having a point 4.In operation this spreader and cast-off swing backward and forwardthrough the transverse slot in the shut tlc-race, the center of motionof the pinion lb being in the vertical plane in which the shuttle moves.

The cam B has at its outer side (see Fig. 4) a cam-groove 5, 'whichreceives a roller or other stud at the inner end ot a rocking lever B,having its fulcrum at B in suitable brackets B7, depending from theupper part of the frame-work, the upwardly-extended arm B of the saidrocking lever carrying the movable member 41 of a thread-clamp, to bedescribed, the said arm being shown in cross-section in the detail Fig.10. The cam B (shown seprately in Fig. S) has at its periphery acam-groove 6, which receives a roller` or other stud c of a lever c',having its fulcrum at IOO IOS

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c2 and slotted at its outer end, as at c3, to receive a stud c4,connected with the feed-regulating lever e5, pivoted at 7 on the leverc, pivoted at cT (see Fig. 1) upon the frame work and connected by ajointed link es with an ear on the frame c, carrying the under meinberc10 of the feed-clamp. The frame e9 is pivoted upon avertical stud-screwcl2, aboutwhich stud-screw the feeding-clamp is vibrated when feedingthe work, the length of the vibration being made greater or less bymoving thefeedregulating lever c, as will be well understood. The framec9 has a horizontally-arranged stud-screw cl3, which serves as thefulcrum for the lever or arm c, on which is mounted the upper member eliofthe feed-clamp. The mem ber cli of the feed-clamp is normally actedupon by a spring c", which may be adjusted by or through a thumb-screwC18 as to its strength, the said spring permitting the upper member torise and fall and to adapt itself to the varying thickness of the soleand welt or stock passing between it and the lower member of the clamp.To lift the upper member of the clamp by hand, I have connected with thelever cAl alink 020, (see Fig. 4,) which is attached to a lever C21,pivoted at c2:2 upon the measuring-block 023, to be described, the saidmeasuring-block being shown best in the detailFig. 15.

The lower member cw of the feed-clamp has connected to it by screws 8(see Fig. 12) a knife f, which is located immediately in front of thestitch-making point, so that it cuts a groove in the sole just inadvance of the sewing, the needle and awl entering the said groove, thestitch being buried therein. The knife is so shaped as to spread andsomewhat open the groove made by it in the sole.

The measuring-block o23 forms a part of a slide c2", fitted vto rise andfall in a suitable groove in the upright- AX, iiXed upon the frame-work.The slide cmhas a stud c25, (see Figs. 4. and 15,) which forms thefulcrum for the lever C26, which is forked at its front end, as shown inFig. 2, to embrace a loose block fitted upon a stud-screw C27, attachedto acarriage C28, adapted to slidein a suitable groove in the arm orlever g, to which is bolted the pressenfoot g', the said carriage havingpivoted upon it at c25 (see Fig. 3) the thread-carrier g2, it having aroller or other stud g3, which enters a cam-slot g4 in a plate g5,attached to the arm or lever g, the lower end of the said thread-carrierbeing bifurcated, as at 12, and being notched at 13 (see Fig. 11)substantially at right angles to the notch or bifurcation 12. The rearend of the arm or lever g is pivoted by the stud g, (see Fig. 2,)

vso that the presser-foot carrier at the under side of the said levernormally rests by grav ity upon the welt vw. The stud c25, extended fromthe slide 024, is also extended through the lever g, so that'as theposition of the said 1ever is changed by the thickness of the stockunder the presser-foot carried by it the said lever will correspondinglyraise or lower the said slide cit, and with it the fulcrum-pin c'25 forthe lever C2G, such provision enabling the thread-guide to, always movethe same distauce--namely, downto the welt w, (see Fig. 11,) no matterwhere it may be, and up to a position above the thread-eye to bedescribed, notwithstanding variations in thickness of the stock. Thepresser-foot has connected with it a thread-eye 71 through which theneedle-thread is led on its way to the work.

The rear end of the lever c2G has jointed to it a link 71', whiehin turnis jointed to arightangled extension (see Fig. 1) of a lever h2, mountedon a stud 713, the lower end of the said lever having a roller or otherstud, which enters a cam-groove h4, shaped as shown in dotted lines,Fig. 2, and made in one side of the cam D, the said cam, lever, and linkvibrating the said lever c2 to reciprocate the thread-carrier. j

The lever g (see Fig. Li) has pivoted upon it a lever m, the front endof which is connected by a stud-screw 1l to a slide my', upon which ispivoted by stud-screw 15, the threadsustainer m2, (best shown in Figs.1, 3, 4, and 11,) it having a point 16, suitably grooved to prevent theneedle-thread slipping oii from it. The thread-sustainer has jointed toit by stud-screw 17 a link m3, (shown by dotted lines, Fig. l, and fulllines, Fig. 1,) which in turn is jointed to a lever mi, pivoted at m5upon apart of the framework, the lower end of the said lever having asuitable roller or other stud 1S, which is acted upon at suitable timesby a camsurface 19 19X (see Fig. 9) at the periphery of the cam C. rllherear end of the lever in is jointed by link m7 to the bracket cap-platem8. This cap-plate has suitable bearings for a stud n, upon which ismounted the take-up lever n', having a suitable sheave n2, the saidtake-up lever (see Fig. 2) having a second arm 72,3, which is slottedfor the reception of an adjustable stud-screw ai, which is connected bylink 'n.5 with the lever n, mounted on the stud h3, before described,the lower -end of the lever n having a suitable roller or other stud,which enters a cam-groove 2O at the outer side of the cam E.

The upright AX has a stud D', upon which is mounted the awl-carryinglever D2, it having at its front end, as herein shown, a suitable awlD3, the awl being held in place in any suitable manner. rlheawl-carrying le- Ver D2 has jointed to it a link D", in turn jointed toalever D5, having its fulcrum upon a pin DJ- in a fulcrum-post D7,provided at its lower end with a fixed collar DS and at its upper endwith an adjustable nut D9, which nut rests upon the measuring-block C23,or upon a sound-deadening washer D30, (see Figs. 3 and 13,) interposedbetween the block and nut. The nut D may be adjusted on the fulcrum-postD7 to compensate for any shortening of the awl due to grinding. Thelever D5 has at its rear end a suitable roller or other IOO IIO

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stud D60, (see Figs. 2 and 5,) which enters a cam-groove 21 in the sideof the cam D. (See Fig. 5.)

The cam C has at one side of it a camgroove 22, the shape of which isbest shown in Fig. 6, which receives a roller` or other stud 23 of alever H, having its fulcrum at H on ay fulcrum-post H', provided at itslower end with a collar H2 and at its upper end with a nut H3, whichrests normally upon the measuring-block o23 alongside of the nut D9. Thefront end of the needle-bar-actuating lever H is provided withsector-teeth, which engage teeth of the needle-bar H4, it being astraight bar provided withastraight hooked needle p.

In this my invention the needle and awl work in the same vertical plane,and both rise in the groove h2 in the Worksupport b', the awl-inaking ahole through the outer sole and welt, and then being withdrawn to letthe needle p rise up through the sole and welt, it passing through thehole made by the awl. This arrangement of the awl and needle at the sameside of the stock and in the same vertical plane, substantially at rightangles to the line of stitching, enables one or the other to remain inthe stock at the same point for a longer period than is possible whenthe awl and needle are arranged one alongside of the other in thedirection of the length of the stitch, and in this arrangement the awland needle always remain in the same vertical plane with relation to thework-supportthat is, neither of them has to do with feeding thematerial.

By dispensing with the awl-feed heretofore used the machine issimplified, and by causing the needle to enter the aWl-hole just asquick as the awl leaves itwithout moving the shoe prevents anyaccidental displacement of the shoe, which Would happen if the awl wasarranged at the side of the needle and the material had to be fed inorder to place the awl-hole over the needle. The needle-bar has a dog frattached to it by a suitable screw r', which dog, about as the point ofthe needle enters the sole, strikes the end of a lever fr?, pivoted atr3 on a stud of a hanger rx, secured to the framework, the opposite endof the said lever, called the pulloif lever, having a sheavefr4. (Shownchiefly by dotted lines in Fig. 4 and by full lines in Figs. 7 and l0.)This sheave acts upon a bight of the needle-thread t. The needle thread,taken from a suitable thread-supply, which may be a cop, spool, orbobbin, is led over any usual tension device, as t', thence under a rollt2, thence up over a roll t3, down through a slot (see Fig. l0) in theframe-work under the sheave r4, and up over the sheave n2, down to andthrough the thread-eye h to the work. The needle-thread, it will benoticed, passes at opposite sides of the clamping-block 4l at the upperend of the arm B of the lever B5, and as the said arm is moved to theright or left clamps the said thread between it and the frame-Work. Vhenthe dog r meets the pull-off lever r2 to turn it, the thread is clampedbetween the clamping-block and the portion 24 of the frame-work, or atthe left, viewing Fig. 10, and at such times the sheave r4, acting onthe needle-thread, pulls off the needle-thread more or less in quantity,according to the thickness of the stock, for it will be understood` thatthe point to which the needle ascends varies through change of positionof the fulcrum-post- H', according to the variations in thickness of thestock under the presser-foot. As the dog r acts to turn the pull-oitlever r2 the latter lever acts upon a stud s2, fast-to the clamp-liftinglever C21, and automatically lifts the upper member @15 of the clampwhile the feed-clamps are being moved backwardly over the stock, thestock then being held by the needle and also between the presser-footand work-support, and it is at this time that the groove or channel iscut in the bottom of the outersole,the length of the groove being thedistance of the feed.

In operation let it be assumed that the outer sole of the shoe lies uponthe worksupport and upon the lower member c10 of the feed-clamp then inits most forward position; that the presser-foot g and the upper meniber015 of the work-feeding clamp rests upon the welt tu; that the awl hasbeen thrust up through the sole s and welt; that the needle D3 has beencarried down into its lowest position; that the spreader b has engagedthe loose or active side of the loop of needlethreadjust drawn down bythe needle, and that the spreader has been moved to spread the loop ofneedle-thread across the path of the shuttle then stationary; that thetake-up n3 is in its most elevated position; that the thread support m2is retracted; that the thread-carrier g2 is in its most elevatedposition, and that the thread-clamp 41 is moved toward the left (viewingFig. l0) to clamp the needle-thread between the sheave r4 and the takeupsheave n3. In this condition rotation of the main shaft in the directionof the arrow 2S (see Fig. l) will depress the awl,with drawing it fromthe stock, and as the awl commences to descend the needle-bar commencesto rise, the point of the needle entering the awl-hole in the stocksubstantially as the point of the awl leaves the said hole, the needleentering the awl-hole Without any change in the position of the stock,thus avoid' ing any possibilit-y of displacement of the material. As theawl lcommences to descend, the thread-Support m2 is moved forward, itarriving in its most forward position about as the point of the needleenters the stock, the thread-carrier g2 commencing its descent while theneedle is rising through the stock, the thread-carrier in its descentengaging the needle-thread below the thread-eye h and carrying itlaterally across the-top of the then stationary thread-support, thethread guide or` carrier descendingin a cam-shaped path to the right ofthe thread-support (see Fig. 11)

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and measuring' off a quantity of the needlethread for the stitch to bemade, the threadcarrier taking the thread so being measured olf -by itand carrying itdown to the welt, at which point it meets lthe hook ofthe needle, the thread-carrier putting the needle-thread in the hook ofthe needle, as in Fig. 1l. During the descent of the thread-carrier, asdescribed, the take-up also descends,it continulng to descend until thethread-carrier presents the thread held by it to the hook of the needle,when the descent of the take-up stops and the thread-support is quicklywithdrawn from the loop of thread placed about it by the threadcarrierleaving the said loop free to be drawn down by the needle in its nextdescent. lVhile the needle is elevated and in the stock thestock-feeding clamp is moved backwardly or to the right, viewing Fig. 3,the knife 7" then cutting a groove in the sole equal to the length ofthe feed movement. As the needle descends with the loop of needle-threadso measured off for it, the thread-carrier rises and the take-up con tinues to descend, giving up thread to the descending needle; but in itsdescent the thread does not rend through or across the hook of theneedle, because thread for that stitch had been previously measured offby the threadcarrier and thread-support. After the needle completes itsdescent the shaft D" is oscillated to cause the spreader l) (see Fig.l2) to engage the active or loose side of the loop of needle-thread andcarryit across the shuttlerace in front of one end of the thenstationary shuttle, and during this time the take-up completes itsdescent, giving up thread to the spreader in order to make the loop ofsufficient size for the shuttle. The spreader having come to rest, theshuttle while the takeup is most depressed and while the needle and awlare both depressed below the stock is passed through the loop ofneedle-thread, and as soon as the shuttle is through the loop ofneedle-thread the take-up starts to rise and the motion of the shaft b"is reversed, causing the cast-off bw to engage the loop of needle-threadand cast it out of the hook of the needle if said loop has not alreadybeen released from the needle, the take-up continuing to rise and thespreader' continuing to move back into its farthest position to the left(viewing Fig. and remaining there until the take-up has nearly completedits movement to take up the stitch, at which time the awl againcommences to rise toward the material, the take-up completing its upwardmovement before the awl engages the material, the feeding-clamp movingthe material forward between thc presser-foot and Work-support while theawl approaches the stock, the feed being completed before the awlreaches the outer sole. While the needle rises through the stock thethread is clamped between the sheave r4 and the takeup; but as soon asthe needle is in the stock and before t-he thread-carrier delivers theloop of needlethread to the hook of the needle the thread-clamp shiftsits position or moves to the right, (viewing Fig-L) clamping the threadat the side all and between the sheave r1 and the thread-supply,`itholding the said thread so clamped until the needle uishes its nextdescent and the take-up sets the stitch, the thread being released j ustabout as the awl commences to enter the outer sole.

am aware that sewing machines of this class have been provided with apull-olf to act upon the needle-thread before it is passed through theeye of the looper to be supplied to the hook of the hooked needle, thesaid pull-off being operatively connected with the worksupport through avariablemotion mechanism, whereby the pull-off has more or less movementimparted to it through changes in position of said work-support, suchposition being determined by the thickness of the stock; but suchconstruction is notherein claimed.

I claiml. A work-support and a presser-foot to hold the stock betweenthem, combined with a curved awl to penetrate the stock and with aneedle to enter the hole made in the stock by the awl as the latteremerges therefrom, the said needle and awl being arranged at the sameside of the stock and in the same vertical plane substantially at rightangles to the line of stitching, whereby the needle enters the awl-holewhile the stock is in the same position in which it was penetrated bytheawl, substantially as described.

2. In a sole-sewing machine, a work-support, a presser-foot, a curvedawl, means to actuate it, and a straight hooked needle and IOO IOS

means to actuate it, the needle a-nd awl both p located below and risingfrom the under side of the work-support through the materialsubstantially as described.

The combination, with a hooked needle, a th read-carrier, awork-support., of a feedingclamp, one member of which is provided with achannel-cutter to intermittingly cut a channel in advance of thestitching,substantially as described.

4. A work-support, a hooked needle, a tln'ead-carrier, and adouble-ended shuttle to make a stitch during each stroke in eachdirection of its movement, combined with a feeding-clamp having achannel-cutter, to opcrate substantially as described.

..A work-support, a hooked needle, a selfadapting presser-foot, athread-carrier and a thread-sustaincr for the needle-thread, bothsupported in such manner as to rise and fall with the presser-footaccording to Variations in thickness of the stock, combined with meansto move the said thread-carrier and thread-sustainer, whereby theneedle-thread is measured off prior to its engagement by the needle toprevent it from being drawn across the hook of the needle while the loopis being formed on the needle-thread, substan tially as described.

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' combined with means to actuate said carriage, whereby the saidthread-carrier has imparted to it both vertical and lateral movements tothereby engage and carry the needle V-thread laterally across the threadsustainer and thereafter present it to the needle, substantially asdescribed.

8. A work-support, a presser-foot, a hooked needle, and a thread-eye,combined with a thread-carrier having an open notch to embrace the upperend of the hooked needle, and having a transverse notchlS, intersectingthe front of the open notch to engage the needle-thread below thethread-eye and present it across the hook of the needle after the latterhas entered the open notch, substantially as described.

9. A vertically-reciprocating hooked needle, a thread-carrier to presenttoit a loop of thread, and an inclined shuttlerace having a transverseslot l0 and a work-support on the upper side of said race, combined witha shuttle, the spreader, and the oscillating' shaft to which it isattached, the spreader moving backward and forward in said transverseslot, substantially as described.

Y' l0. Thevertically-reciprocatinghookedneedle and thread-carrier, atransversely-slotted shuttle-race, a shuttle therein, and means to moveit, combined with a loop-spreader and cast-oit, and thevertically-placed oscillating spreader-shaft substantially as described.

1l. A work-support, a presser-foot, a movable carrier therefor, an awl,an awl-carrier, a hooked needle, a needle-bar, an awl-actuating lever,connections between it and the awlcarrier, a needle-bar-actuatin glever, variable fulcrum-posts forY said levers, connectiensbe tween thesaid fulcrum-posts and the movable carrier for the presser-foot, andmeans to actuate said levers, substantially as described.

12. A work-support, a carrier g, a verticallymovable block upon which itis mounted, a presser-foot connected to the said carrier, twofulcrum-posts connected with said block, an

awl-carrier having an attached awl, and a needle-barhaving a hookedneedle, combined with awl and needle-bar operating levers and means toactuate the said levers, whereby the awl and needle are adapted to risethrough the sole and welt for a uniform distance notwithstandingvariations in thickness of the stock', substantiallyas described.

13. In a sole-sewing machine, the following instrumentalities, viz: awork-support, a presser-foot, a straight hooked needle, an awl, andactuating devices therefor, whereby the needle enters the awl-hole asthe latter emerges therefrom, as described, combined with an inydependent clamping feed device and means to vibrate the latter whileengaging and clamping the stock to feed the same while the needle andawl are outof the stock, substantially as described.

14. The work-support, a hooked needle, needle-bar, and the projection r,carried by the said needle-bar, combined with the pull-off leveractuated thereby and means to automatically vary the stroke of saidneedle-bar according to the thickness of the stock, substantially asdescribed.

l5. The work-support, a hooked needle, straight needle-bar, andtheprojection r, carried by the said bar, combined with the pulloff leveractuated thereby and means to automatically vary the stroke of saidneedle-bar according to the thickness of the stock, and with athread-clamp 4l, to operate substantially as described.

. 16. The work-support, a hooked needle and needle-bar,and theprojection fr, carried by the needle-bar, combined with the pull-olflever actuated thereby and means to automatically vary the stroke ofsaid needle-bar according to the thickness of the stock, and with thefeeding-clamp, the pin S2, and connectionsV between it and thefeeding-clamp to actuate the latter to lift the upper member thereof,substantially as described.

17. The work-support, a hooked needle, a straight needle-bar, and theprojection r, carried thereby, combined with the pull-off lever actuatedthereby and meansto automatically vary the stroke of said needle-baraccording to the thickness of the stock, and with a take-up to act n'ponthe needle-thread, substantially as described.

In testimcn y whereof l have signed my name to this specification in thepresence of two subscribing witnesses. Y

CHRISTIAN DANCEL.

Vitnesses:

H. G. DALLIoRs, CHARLEs M. MILLER.

TOO

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